| Product Specific |
| Questions |
Answers |
Can the Fire Vulcan be
field-modified to have a mode in which the main bulb is steadily lighted and the taillights flash?
|
No. This would require a
factory modification of the circuit board and is not
currently available
For More info, please see the Fire Vulcan Info page >>> |
Can I convert my SL-20, 20X, 20XP or 5X to an LED model?
|
No.
For More info, please see the SL-20X Series page >>> |
What is the difference between the
Titanium Twin-Task-3C UV and the Black Twin-Task-3CUV?
|
The titanium model features (6)
390 nm LED’s. The black version contains UV LED’s with 2
different nanometer ratings: (3) 375 nm LED’s and (3) 390 nm
LED’s. The wavelength of the UV LED’s determine what types
of UV images can be observed.
For More info, please see the Twin-Task Series page >>> |
| Is the 4AA waterproof and suitable for recreational diving? |
No. The 4AA really isn’t a
diving light. Water pressure against the switch will turn it
on at as little as 15 feet. The current rating is IP67 which
is one meter for 30 minutes.
For More info, please see the 4AA Propolymer page >>> |
| Can I mount a Stinger on a weapon? |
Streamlight
does not currently make weapons mounts for the Stinger. We
have not thoroughly tested the Stinger in weapons mounted
applications although limited testing has shown no problems.
For More info, please see the Stinger page >>> |
| How do I sight-in the laser on my TLR-2? |
There are two adjustment screws
located on the laser housing (elevation and windage). There
is only one distance where the bullet path will coincide
with the laser. On a normal weapon, the sights are mounted
above the bore line and are adjusted to look slightly down
with relation to the bore line. When the weapon is fired,
the bullet "climbs" (actually, a bullet DROPS from the bore
line from the moment it first leaves the barrel, but the
bore is tilted upward slightly so the bullet is physically
traveling upward for a short distance), crosses the sight
line, reaches its upward peak (the peak of the "mid-range
trajectory"), descends to cross the sight line a SECOND
time, and after that it's all downhill. How the sights are
adjusted, along with the muzzle velocity of the bullet (a
10mm is faster than a .45, and a rifle faster yet),
determine where these points occur. The user must decide how
high above or below the sight line the bullet can be allowed
to strike and adjust the sights accordingly. A laser is
seldom mounted above the bore line. It is usually below or
to the side. This means the bullet crosses the laser sight
line ONLY ONCE. This point is the "zero range." For a laser
mounted below the bore, at distances less than the zero
range the bullet will be above the sight line. Beyond the
sight line it will be below. The bullet will deviate from
the sight line FASTER WITH A LASER than with conventional
sights. If mounted to the side, the bullet will also deviate
to the side of the laser line as well as up and down. In
practice, an TLR-2 on a handgun can be adjusted to keep the
bullet strike within about 2" high and 2" low out to about
100 feet, which is better than most people, and a lot of
guns, can shoot.
For More info, please see the TLR-2 page >>> |
| My M6 seems to fit extremely tightly
when I place it on a weapon other than a Glock. Is the M6 defective? |
The M6 is designed for use on a
Glock mounting-rail. Some weapons employ the dimensions and
specifications of the Glock mounting rail while other
weapons conform to the MIL-STD-1913 (Picatinny). The
difference in the tolerances will affect the fit of the M6
on a weapon-mounting rail. It is important to maintain the
original configuration of the M6. The mounting should not be
modified as that could affect the reliability of the laser
aiming system. In-house testing has shown that affixing the
light to the mounting rail and allowing it to “set-up” for a
few days can allow the mounting to conform more suitably.
Additionally, try to fit the light onto the mounting rail
without the locking-bar. If the light fits better the
locking bar may need some adjustment to help improve the
fit. The top of the locking bar may have a tiny amount of
flash on it from the molding process. Lightly scraping this
material away with a sharp knife or file should help the
fit. Try not to be too aggressive at first. You may have to
repeat the process several times to get a better fit. It is
not necessary to remove much of the material.
|
| I bought a Survivor LED with an
alkaline battery pack. Can I upgrade to a rechargeable battery? |
Yes. The battery pack will
determine which safety approval ratings apply. The UL/CUL
rating information is molded on the body. Any Survivor LEDs
that were made without the rating information ARE NOT
APPROVED. Any Survivor LEDs that were made without the
rating information CANNOT BE UPDATED. The rating DEPENDS on
the BATTERY that is installed.
The ratings are:
Class I Div 1, groups C & D (gas)
Class I Div 2, A, B, C, D (gas)
Class II Div 2, Groups F & G (dust)
Class III (flammable flyings)
Temp. Code: T4
1/ With the ALKALINE AA pack, ALL ratings apply.
2/ With the BLUE rechargeable pack 90130, ALL ratings apply.
3/ With the BLACK Div 2 pack 90338, ONLY the Class I Div 2,
Class II Div 2, and the Class III ratings apply.
This means the SAME LIGHT can be EITHER a Div 1 (and 2) OR a
Div 2 — ONLY depending on what battery pack is used.
There is NO WAY to tell whether a Survivor LED is Div 1 or
Div 2 — ONLY EXCEPT by looking at the battery pack.
ATEX (European) rating information is contained on a label
on the body.
II 1G Ex ia IIB T4 — when used with four 1.5V Size AA
Duracell MN1500 Alkaline batteries ONLY. (Zones 0 and 1)
II 2G Ex e ib IIB T4 — when used with Streamlight
rechargeable battery 90130. (Zone 1)
This means the SAME LIGHT can be EITHER Zone 0 or Zone 1
depending on what battery pack is used.
For More info, please see the Survivor LED page >>> |
I have a Twin Task that ran well for
many hours. Recently the Xenon bulb stopped working but the LED's
still function. I have replaced the Xenon bulb but it still does not
light. Do I need to send the flashlight for repair?
|
Not necessarily. The LED's in
the Twin Task will run on low batteries for some time after
the Xenon bulb stops working. First try replacing the
weakened batteries with fresh cells. If fresh batteries and
a new bulb do not solve the problem please contact our
Repair Department.
For More info, please see the Twin-Task Series page >>> |
The lens on my flashlight appears
have been damaged by the heat from the bulb.
|
The Unbreakable polycarbonate
lens that is used on most of our lights will last for years.
The lens must have sufficient airflow across it to keep it
cool. Do not place the flashlight lens-down on any surface.
If the airflow is restricted for even a short period of
time, the lens can be damaged. |
The color of the light from my LED
flashlight looks different than the light from the same model
flashlight when I shine them on the wall together. Is one LED
defective?
|
There is nothing wrong with
either LED. LED technology produces an unavoidably wide
range of tints. Streamlight pays extra to buy the color bins
which are closest to perceived white light. The light will
always be bluer than an incandescent, and there will be more
variation between identical products than with incandescent
lamps. |
